A Pittsburgh Handyman,
I LOVE To Install TV WALL MOUNTS!
This Is One Job You Gotta Do RIGHT!
If you do it wrong, it could end up on the floor!
You also have to have it LEVEL! Only a few degrees of tilt will be obvious on a wide TV.
Read this page and learn:
Shopping Tips: Two Main Styles
You can have an articulated arm that lets you pull the TV away from the wall and make it point anywhere.
The other one mounts flat against the wall. Most allow some tilting up and down, but no tilting left and right.
Here's a flat mount bracket. Most allow some up and down tilt.
Tilting can reduce the glare from a window. Tilting is not an issue if there is no window.
Notice the wide base against the wall. It can easily span two studs.
A GOOD articulated bracket has that same wide base against the wall.
Don't Get One With A Narrow Base! Here's what I don't understand:
If you need articulation, get one with a wide wall plate. Remember, your TV is so big nobody will ever see the wall mount. So you get no style points for a tiny wall plate.
Don't Forget A Shelf!
Your newTV looks beautiful, hanging on the wall. But where are your DVR, DVD player, and game console? Are they still on the floor? Do their wires reach up to the TV?
You need a shelf. These devices need to be near the TV, because people tend to shoot their clickers at the TV, not at that DVR that's still on the floor.
A Surge Protector!
You have one at your computer. Why not here?
Did your TV cost more than your computer? DOESN'T MATTER! Both cost more than a surge protector!
Plus, there's room to plug in SIX things!
One Last Detail: Hide Your Wires!
Method 1: Quick, Easy, And Cheap
It's easy to hide that unsightly mess. This Peel-N-Press method is easier than hiding your wires inside the wall!
It's good enough for most people, and is way cheaper.
You just peel some paper off the back and press the sticky side to the wall.
If you have a lot of wires, you can buy the wider and flatter version.
You can paint them, too.
Method 2: A Better Solution
All you see in this picture is two things plugged in, and one of them is for that cable box.
You see no wires between that cable box and the TV.
I am not a real electrician, but that's OK, because I do not tamper with your house's wiring. I don't even need to flip a circuit breaker! I just have to plug something in!
My upper unit gives you a place to plug in your TV. And a neat hole where we can drop your low voltage wires. Those excessive dangling wires will be pushed into the wall.
My lower unit has a wire to plug into your existing wall outlet. And you can see those low voltage wires peeping out at the bottom.
You should have a small table to hide the lower unit, which will also be a good place to put your DVR.
I need a hollow wall. This won't work above a fireplace or on a brick wall.
The base rate is $98 per TV
I take cash (of course), checks, and credit / debit cards (Visa, Mastercard, Discover, and Amex).
This is for a standard installation on drywall walls. It's harder to find the studs in plaster walls, and it's harder to drill into brick, so they have an extra $20 charge.
Plus, there may be a service call fee. I live near Ross Park Mall. If you live out as far as Monroeville, Cranberry, Robinson, or Mt. Lebanon, there is a fee.
You can provide your own bracket, or I can provide one.
If you provide a used one, be sure it has ALL of the original hardware, not just what was needed the last time it was used. If I can't use your bracket, you must pay $25 plus the service call fee (if any), for the wasted trip. Or, you can buy one of my brackets.
I carry these brackets:
Hiding your wires straight down inside a hollow wall costs $129, including the hardware.
Hiding your wires using a Peel-N-Press surface mount costs $40, including ten feet of wire hider with two turns. Add $20 for each extra ten feet and two turns.
I can hang a sound bar or a shelf for $20.
I can provide a surge protector for $25. You can go buy one yourself. But PLEASE... Don't 'Get around to it some day.'